Western Panama in Pictures
Panama Immersion Tour: Chiriquí Highlands
Cover photo: Panama's western highlands at sunset
What got us to the heart of Chiriqui for a week straight was a series of unfortunate events. But that is another story.
The truth is, this was one of the best birding trips I’ve ever been on, and I’m extremely thankful that we all got here together.
The following is a reflection of our July 2025 Panama Immersion Tour. Titles and any additional captions follow each photo.
I suggest you peruse them with the following music in the background—it’s what we listened to each afternoon at Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Lodge, and reflects the vibes we carried all week together.
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Setting the scene
We left Panama City in a small plane bound for David, the capital of Chiriquí Province. From there, it was a few hours’ drive to the highlands. We were within sight of Costa Rica by the time we reached Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Lodge, nestled within the southern Talamanca Mountain Range.
Mount Totumas Cloud Forest Lodge
Tucked into the hillside that we wound up and around.
Walking into the lodge at midday, already tired and excited, we quickly settled into our serene rooms and headed to the deck that would serve as our main gathering space.
First looks at the landscape • Lesser Violetear • Emerald Swift • Common Chlorospingus
Mount Totumas is an idyllic cloud forest escape that borders La Amistad National Park, Central America’s largest highland preserved wilderness. At 6,200 feet, the trails wind through varied stages of forest habitat—the 400 acres were a cattle farm when purchased by its current owners, and now are used for a mix of shade-grown coffee, livestock, and maintained wildnerness trails.
Golden-bellied Flycatcher
Birding at Mount Totumas
The reserve has miles of trails in every direction from the lodge that we had the luxury of exploring at a leisurely pace.
Bat Falcon • Heliconia sp. • Posing at a trailhead • Capuchin Monkey
Right away, we chose to track down the species that was constantly beckoning us: the Three-wattled Bellbird.
It turns out that the source of the sound can be deceivingly difficult to track down. However, we were optimistic and determined, and eventually, the hike paid off.
Finding a bellbird
Three-wattled bellbird
Sound on for the full effect.
Violet Sabrewing
Daily life at Mount Totumas
Most days, our routine was the following:
- Coffee and birding from the deck at your leisure around sunrise
- A delicious made-to-order breakfast
- A leisurely walk around the private trails – sometimes with a target in mind, sometimes with a simple goal of exploring a new section of the reserve
- Lunch at the lodge
- The jazz starts to play as we spread out for free time spent birding, hiking, writing, reading, painting, or napping
- Wine appeared on the dining table shortly before dinner
- We reveled in a spectacular and varied dinner each night
- We either took a night walk, looked at the moth light next to the lodge, or leisured around the table until bed.
Reinaldo Rodriguez, the resident naturalist and bird guide at Mount Totumas, and Brenda Sanchez, a naturalist and bird guide for Tranquilo Bay Ecolodge, joined us local guides for each outing.
Reinaldo and Brenda with Margaret
This tour fit a theme of mine: to bird itineraries with other women guides. I had been planning a tour with Brenda for nearly a year, and there are more to come.
This ended up being the first all-women tour I’ve been a part of, including leaders and participants. (And excluding Reinaldo, but we were thrilled to have his expertise with us all week!)
Along with the atmosphere at Mount Totumus Lodge, our companions fostered a lot of camaraderie and warmth that felt extra special.
Brenda pointing out a bird
Women birding together
Hiking at Mount Totumas
Our trail excursions at Mount Totumas painted pictures of microhabitats that resident species used within the forest.
Claire in photography mode • A tree that was struck by lightning • Megan at a stream crossing • Hiking into highlands • Cattle crossing • Winding through forested pastures • Camouflaged Sulphur-winged Parakeet • Overlooking the valley • Tracey and settling fog
Back at the lodge, we also learned about the harder-to-see mammals that live in and pass through the reserve, including several wild cats.
Learning about Jaguars on trail cameras
We also learned the workings of the shade-grown coffee plantation, another core part of the reserve. Mount Totumas is well known for its small-batch Geisha coffee.
Shade-grown coffee and the reserve
Coffee plants
Silk moth caterpillar in the understory
Downtime enjoyment
It’s a rare treat on a birding to get a stretch of free time, but by design, we had a few open afternoons at the lodge. We spent them doing whatever we wanted—birding, hiking, writing, reading, painting, or napping. It was a pleasure to have time to soak in the area at our own paces.
Painting • Studying • Our common area • A picturesque setting for chess • A constant companion • Quiet moments • Scanning the valley • A spectacular view • Leisurely photography
Tropical Lady Slipper Orchid at Birding Paradise
Exploring Chiriquí: Birding Paradise
On some days, we left the serene lodge to explore other parts of the province.
We looked for the resident Torrent Tyrannulets along the entrace road every time we left the lodge.
One place we visited was Birding Paradise, aptly located in Paraíso, Panama. This spot has been managed for wildlife and has it all: great forest, a gorgeous stream, productive feeders, and a variety of interesting herbs and medicinal plants.
Early morning birding at the feeders
A close-range Lesson's Motmot
The bird diversity at Birding Paradise is astounding—we listed more than 80 species by lunchtime, in addition to several mammals and other sightings.
Scaly-breasted Hummingbird • Variegated Squirrel • Orange-collared Manakin • Gray-headed Chachalaca • Orchid Bees • Black-necked Jacobin • Zombie Ant • Scarlet-rumped Tanager • Toby, the resident dog
Exploring Chiriquí: Lagunas de Volcán
We also visited Lagunas de Volcán, an expanse of wetlands and surrounding forest with well-developed trails.
Birding the entrance road
Scanning the understory
We found a range of exciting birds, from vibrant Scarlet-thighed Dacnis and Bay-headed Tanagers to cryptic White-throated Spadebills and adorable young Northern Jacanas. One of the most dramatic moments of the morning was a showdown between a pair of Bicolored Hawks and a Collared Forest-falcon.
Outside of the forest, the expansive fields added to our species diversity.
White-throated Flycatcher
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater
Lasting memories
Our week was unforgettable for all the right reasons. There will also be more to explore in places as diverse and inviting as Chiriquí, but this week-long tour was just the right recipe of adventure and relaxation to soak in western Panama’s goodness.
From left: Clare, Margaret, Megan, Tracey, Mollee, Brenda, and Reinaldo. Thank you all for such an inspiring and memorable tour!
Future tours
Brenda and I have a sold-out tour at Tranquilo Bay Ecolodge next June. More Panama tours are in the works; sign up for my emails to get the updates!
